On the morning of Sunday 2^nd October, we were up bright, early and excited. For the first time we would see one of the planet’s great wonders, one of the largest animals alive today: Humpback Whales, or Megaptera novaeangliae. Heading up the coast a few dozen kilometres to Redcliffe, we arrived to find the car park we’d been advised to use had a market on top of it. Still, we had an hour to kill, so we took a look around and it turned out it was rather a good market, where Lucy picked up a pair of Happy Pants. Everyone needs a pair of Happy Pants! Anyway.

The boat that took us out from Redcliffe jetty was a catamaran called Eye Spy. And I know that modern catamarans are fast, but- well, that doesn’t prepare you for being on one. If you’ve ridden a fast ferry or such recently you’ll know what I mean. It’s like a speedboat the size of a restaurant. Once underway, we headed outside the cabin to the open deck, enjoying the placid speed as the fairly strong wind was with us so it hardly felt like there was a wind at all.

Suddenly the boat’s engine went quiet and we slowed to a bobbing halt. I could have sworn I heard the sound of whale song at that moment; sure enough, they’d begun playing whalesong through the loudspeakers (that were used to communicate narration by the resident expert on the Humpbacks: Captain Kerry Lopez). Playing the sounds on the speakers while catching the first glimpse of the slick black forms breaking the surface might sound like a bit of a smoke & mirrors trick, but the effect was charmingly completing.

The mother & two calves we observed passed by happily, and I was left with indescription on my tongue, not something I’m used to. Like the pictures and video footage we took, my explanations are but shapes and shadows cast by the campfire; only imitations of a platonic grand moment. In fact this was one reason this particular entry took me so long (well… that, and an obstinate internet connection).

The beach of the island ahead of us was not much further than a kilometre off the bow when the whales passed by. I had expected us to go to much deeper waters to find them, yet here they were swimming along merrily within clear sight of Tangalooma & the other beaches of Moreton Island. In the hope of encountering more, we made our way around the northern cape, out of Moreton bay and a short way into the Pacific Ocean proper. The wind that hit us there on this already blustery day was nothing short of tremendous.

Lunch was served as we made our way steadily along, the whales passing by occassionally; some making more of a show of it than others. The buffet was eagerly anticipated (at least by me) and thoroughly enjoyed. They also had unpeeled prawns, which are just, well… more fun, if I’m honest.

After some hours out on the ocean, we turned and headed back to Redcliffe; leaving the mysterious giants of the deep to continue their long journey to the Antarctic Sea. Even the trip back was good fun: the tempestuous waves battering the wind side of the vessel so hard that the occasional superwave would come crashing over the heads of those on deck. It was all taken in good humour though.

The day came to a well-rounded finish with a fish & chip takeaway not far from the seafront, which we at while looking out over the bay.

To be added soon: Video footage of the whales!